Tuesday, June 9, 2009

A Beautiful Building

The Redentore, Venice, designed by Andrea Palladio.

Exterior facing the Giudecca Canal.


Interior


Dome and vaults of the interior

The Redentore was Palladio's last and greatest church, built on the Giudecca, far from the city center, but visible from San Marco. Like so many splendid Venetian things, it has it origins in the plague. A visitation of the plague in 1576 killed approximately 46,000 to 50,000 people, almost a third of the city's population. Among the more famous victims was the great painter Titian. The Venetian Senate publicly prayed to Christ the Redeemer to deliver the city. The plague soon lifted, and the Senate resolved to build a church in gratitude, and to build it quickly. Construction began in 1577, but was not finished until 1592. The church was to be under the care of the Capuchin friars. About 20 monks still live in the monastery attached to the church. The Senate also resolved to make a solemn procession through the city to the church every year, a tradition that continues to this day, every 3rd Sunday in July (today the Festa del Redentore is part solemn religious observance and part huge party on the water concluding with a spectacular fireworks display). It was decided to locate the church across the wide Giudecca canal, which meant that the concluding length of the annual procession takes place across a temporary pontoon bridge built for the occasion. The church was to be the destination of a long pilgrimage procession through the city.

Palladio beautifully finesses some difficult problems with this building. Palladio, the arch-classicist whose building designs and surveys of ancient Roman buildings would have a huge influence on English and American architecture (especially on Jefferson), was required by Counter-Reformation church regulations to incorporate a very large nave into a classical design. The Capuchin friars, who were given charge of the church, wanted it to be built primarily out of brick with a minimal amount of marble used on on the facade. The dome of the church, like the domes of all great Venetian churches, was required to harmonize with the 5 domes of the great 11th century Byzantine Church of San Marco in the city center. The church would face north, its facade in perpetual shadow, and its apse facing the full force of the direct southern sunlight.

The Redentore, in my opinion, is the West's answer to the Taj Mahal. It is an incredibly beautiful building that remains neglected in the architecture survey textbooks and on tourist itineraries, mostly because of its distance from the city center. The facade is a brilliant variation on Alberti's original idea to incorporate the Roman triumphal arch and temple portico into a single structure. It describes the nave and side chapels behind it splendidly. Architecture, like music, is about the transitions, and the transitions from part to part in this building have a happy inevitability that by all logic shouldn't work. The building is a hybrid of disparite influences; Roman classical architecture (as interpreted by Alberti), a medieval nave floor plan, and Byzantine, and even Islamic, elements in the dome and bell towers. Palladio turns the awkward lighting of the site into an advantage in the splendid interior. The light of the church's interior brightens in stages as it moves south to the altar. It is an effect that is hard to photograph. We move from the diffuse light of the nave to the brighter light of the domed apse above the altar. In a brilliant stroke, Palladio puts the monks' choir behind the altar, and makes it the most brilliantly lit part of the church silhouetting the screen of tall Corinthian columns behind the altar. Palladio wanted the light to be the main drama in his church interiors, and discouraged extensive fresco painting and decoration. The austere Capuchins were happy to oblige.

What so strikes me about Palladio's best work is not so much the order and the harmony of his buildings, but that the effect in the end is so happy. The sensation of his architecture is like that of so much of Mozart's music, not so much grandeur and order, but happiness. The great German poet Goethe always insisted that classicism is about health. Palladio's architecture, like Mozart's music is about not just health, but happy resolutions. And in this case, it is the happy transcendent resolution to a very dark chapter in Venice's history, the assurance that all those lost in the disaster of 1576 rest with the saints in light.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Well, Maybe Not.

New York State Senate Republicans staged a coup and took over the Senate.  Democrats briefly had control of the state senate for the first time in 40 years by a one seat majority.  That evaporated when 2 Democratic senators, one from the Bronx (NOT Ruben Diaz) and another from Queens, defected to the Republican side.  However, they did not change their party affiliation, the Democrats refuse to recognize the move, and the whole thing will likely end up in court.

So, it looks like no gay marriage bill this year.

New York ranks right up there with Texas and California when it comes to dysfunctional state government.  Mercy!

Gay Marriage in New York This Year?

Maybe.

It all hinges now on the state Senate. There are conflicting reports about the number of votes that suggest that prospects for its passage are brighter than first thought. It has already passed the Assembly. Governor Patterson will sign it. Leading the opposition is Ruben Diaz, senator from the Bronx. He is officially a Democrat, but he is also a conservative evangelical minister who takes a hard line against both gay rights and reproductive rights. He recently got into a lot of hot water with the Jewish community for comparing abortion in the USA to the Holocaust. He also made trouble for himself when he said that Sonia Sotomayor's nomination to the Supreme Court would be "bad for Christians."  He backed away from that statement after a lot of complaints from his own constituents.  The Tillman murder out in Kansas has dogged him (fairly or unfairly) in recent days, even though he said that he unequivocally condemns the murder. To his credit, Senator Diaz opposes the death penalty, unlike most American conservative evangelicals.

Ruben Diaz opposes gay marriage for entirely religious reasons. Almost all of the arguments for gay marriage try to separate the civil from the religious argument. The religious argument gets sidestepped entirely. That's understandable because of the very wide diversity of religious allegiances in this state, and because of the constitutional separation of church and state in this country. But, I think the religious argument FOR gay marriage can and should be made in public. Religion is not supposed to sway legislative decisions (officially anyway), but it certainly does sway public opinion. A religious argument should be made, and made publicly, to challenge the likes of Ruben Diaz.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

The Engulfed Cathedral

Here's a mental image for church today.

One of my favorite Debussy pieces from the First Book of the Preludes, performed by the composer himself on a 1913 piano roll.



I really enjoy the whole Fin de Siecle Symbolist aesthetic, even if I don't want to paint sphinxes and femmes fatales, and I don't care for green absinthe or mauve handkerchiefs. No one did that whole evocative aesthetic better than Debussy.
Decadence used to be such fun, and now it's just decadent. I don't think Mallarme, Huysmans, or Verlaine and Rimbaud are missing much.

Why Is the Episcopal Church Like the Democratic Party?

Because it's happy to take gay money and gay time and labor while creating yet another commission to "study" gay issues in the hope that we can be better managed. The bishops are creating yet another theological subcommittee (and a secret one this time), while President Obama wants to create yet another commission on LGBTs in the military.

Remind me again of how long ago were the Stonewall riots. How long have our issues been "studied" to death? Who else in this country and in this church have had their rights and their marriages put up for a vote? Who else has been told to go stand in a "crucified place" over there behind the potted palm in the corner?

Face it sisters, we're the Lord's own inconvenient little shit-storm of a constituency.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

My Current Debussy Obsession

God bless ITunes! All that is old is made new again.
I once had a series of records, now long lost, that I enjoyed immensely. I had records of Paul Jacobs playing Debussy piano works, the really difficult ones, the Preludes, the Etudes, Images, Estampes, etc. I used to listen to them a lot with great pleasure. Now with the help of ITunes and a little IPod clip that Michael gave me, I can enjoy them once again. I've been playing them quite a lot lately. I never realized how much I missed those records.

Here's the first of the Etudes played by someone other than Paul Jacobs:



I should point out that I'm no music maven (like Madpriest or Toujoursdan or any number of people in my parish including the rector). I know enough about music to know that I don't know much about it. I have very eclectic tastes.

China Drops a Hairpin

Shanghai gets ready for its first Gay Pride observance.